Clarity is defined as a diamonds internal/external identifying characteristics and has a big impact on a diamonds cost and beauty. These identifying characteristics could be surface blemishes or internal inclusions. While many people call these characteristics as “flaws” or “imperfections”, they really are not bad characteristics but show its “unique identifiable life”.
Many clarity characteristics will have a large impact on clarity, but many characteristics will not hurt the clarity grade or the overall beauty of the diamond.
Internal Inclusions:
Bearding – Tiny hair-like fractures that start from the girdle and end inside the diamond. Caused by too much pressure during the cutting process.
Bruise – Small crumbled spot on the diamonds surface with root-like fractures extending in to the diamond. Caused by an accidental blow.
Cavity – Large and deep opening that penetrates the diamond from the surface. Usually caused during the polishing process.
Chip – Varied sizes and doesn’t extend into the diamond. Chips usually happen where two facets meet. Caused by an accidental blow.
Cloud – A hazy looking area inside the diamond made up by a number of little inclusions. Caused during birth of the diamond.
Feather – (two types: cleavage and fracture both white-colored in nature) A break inside the diamond. A cleavage is a break in relatively weak directions creating a flat-look feather. A fracture is a break in the crystal in other directions that results in a jagged look. Caused by sudden or extreme stress during the growing process of the diamond.
Included Crystal – Is another type of mineral that was captured by the diamond during the diamonds growth period. In many cases the mineral will be bright or dark while some are colorless. In some cases other precious gemstones have been found inside the diamond making the diamond very expensive in most cases never makes it to the market.
Internal Graining – Visible evidence of irregular growth in the diamond crystal which resemble faint lines, steaks or ripples. Graining could also be cloudy and reflective.
Knot – An included diamond crystal that reaches the surface of a polished diamond. If the knot is inside only, the knot becomes an Included Crystal.
Laser Drill Hole – A tiny channel burned by a laser to lighten an inclusion.
Pinpoint – A very, very small included crystal. Under magnification the pinpoint looks like a white-colored speck inside the diamond. Pinpoints can be alone or in groups.
Fun Fact:
The terms “carbon spot” and “bubble” are older terms used to describe inclusions. Many consumers still use these terms while most retailers do not. The “carbon spot” are rarely carbon but feathers or transparent included crystals that appear black (or a dark color) at certain directions and “bubbles” are round, solid crystals and not filled with air.
External Blemishes:
Abrasion – Tiny nicks along the ridge where the facets meet. Caused by diamonds rubbing each other in a parcel.
Extra Facet – An extra facet that isn’t required to be there. Usually caused when the cutters add an extra facet to eliminate blemishes or miscalculations and only classified as a blemish from the girdle up or easy to see from the table down.
Natural – Part of the natural crystal surface that remains on the diamond after the cutting process and usually stay on of near the girdle.
Nick – Is a small notch, usually on the girdle edge or along junctions. Caused by an accidental blow.
Pit – A very small and shallow opening like a miniature cavity.
Polish Lines – Tiny parallel lines, ridges, or grooves left on diamond’s surface after polishing. The resemble scratches and usually seen in groups.
Polish Marks – Surface clouding that results when the diamond surface becomes to hot during the polishing process.
Rough Girdle - A girdle surface that looks grainy or pitted. Caused by poor technique.
Scratch – An indentation that usually look like a white line on the diamonds surface. Caused by diamonds rubbing each other or poor polishing.
Surface Graining – The same as internal graining but happens on the surface.
Evaluating Clarity:
Evaluating clarity isn't as easy as you think. Clarity is determined by a skilled and seasoned master grader using a 10-power magnifier with special light sources to make the internal or external characteristics easier to see.
10-power or 10x magnification means 10 times the actual size and is a standard tool in the jewelry industry. Further more, using 10x magnification is required by the US Federal Trade Commission.
Gem Laboratories use Gemological Microscopes (or gemscopes) to evaluate clarity. These gemscopes feature special lights and an optical device that produce accurate three-dimensional and upright images. With these special features the Gem Lab can easily evaluate a diamond, plot the characteristics and take photographs of the diamond. All this could be done using the standard 10x Jewelers Loop but it wouldn’t get done as fast. But don’t get confused; the jewelers loop is still used in Gem Labs, but not as much as the gemscope and the jewelers loop is widely used in many retail locations while the gemscope is not. Why? The price tag for the gemscope is a big one. You get fewer frills with the jewelers loop but get the same optical results as the gemscope.
Examination:
Before the gemscope or jewelers loop is used, the master grader will always look at the diamond through his/her eyes. Then the master grader will look at the diamond in a face-up position slowly twisting and turning the diamond to get a good/clean look at the diamond. Then they turn the diamond over and repeat the process. Then the hold the diamond straight up-and-down and rotate the diamond to see the sides. The five factors they are trying to answer are:
Size – How big are the characteristics and are they a threat to the overall strength of the diamond.
Number – How many are there if any.
Nature – What is the cause of the characteristic.
Position – Where the characteristic is to the edge of the diamond.
Color – Are the characteristics clear, white, dark or brightly colored.
Final Clarity Grades:
FL – Flawless – No blemishes or internal characteristics visible under 10x magnification.
IF – Internally Flawless – No internal characteristics only blemishes visible under 10x magnification.
VVS1 and VVS2 – Very Very Slightly Included – Extremely hard to see characteristics (VVS1) or very difficult (VVS2) to see under 10x magnification.
VS1 and VS2 - Very Slightly Included – Minor inclusions that are fairly hard (VS1) or fairly easy (VS2) to see under 10x magnification.
SI1 and SI2 – Slightly Included – Noticeable characteristics that are easy (SI1) or very easy to see under 10x magnification.
NOTE: As of 2004 SI3 is not in the GIA handbook. GIA does not recognize this new step. Because GIA does not recognize it, your insurance company or gemologist also might not recognize it. So be careful. You could be spending more money for an SI3 diamond when it is recognized as an I1 clarity grade. But SI3 does fill the whole between I1 and SI2 clarity grades.
I1, I2 and I3 – Included – Significant inclusions that are visible (I1), easily visible (I2) or obvious (I3) without 10x magnification. I2 and below may affect the strength of the diamond.
IMPORTANT SIDE NOTE:
1- There are common practices in the diamond industry that "improves" clarity. Please take a minute and read, or at least glance at this information. You may, or could run into these "improved" diamonds.
2- Grading clarity is done by a master grader but each master grader may affect the final grade of the diamond. One master grader may grade the diamond a respectable VS1 but another master grader may see that same diamond and say it is a VVS2. While they both are master graders and both correct in their final grades, the grading system is only in place as a tool to be followed and not a law to be held-up against. When it comes to placement, size or type of a characteristic it is the best experienced guess that is the final grade.
The grading system is done by humans and humans see things differently.